July 3, 2001: Revelstoke and Vancouver, British Columbia
	July 1, 2001: Maligne Canyon and Yoho National Park
	Return to the Index for Our Canada Trip

Today we will leave Golden and continue west on the Trans-Canada Highway, making a number of stops in Canada's Glacier National Park. The end of the day will find us in Revelstoke National Park, and we intend to stay the night in the town of Revelstoke.

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is one of seven national parks in British Columbia, and is part of a system of 43 parks and park reserves across Canada. Established in 1886, the park encompasses 521 square miles, and includes a portion of the Columbia Mountains. It also contains the Rogers Pass National Historic Site.

Glacier National Park

The park's history is closely tied to two primary Canadian transportation routes, the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), completed in 1885, and the Trans-Canada Highway, completed in 1963. The pass in the center of the park eluded explorers until 1881.

The Selkirk Mountains (named after an executive of the Hudson's Bay Company) were first noted by Europeans when explorer David Thompson skirted around them on the Columbia River in 1811. Finding a pass through them became a priority after construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway began. (Completion of the railway was a condition of British Columbia's entrance into the Canadian Confederation in 1867.) In 1865, the railway sent an expedition up the Illecillewaet River (after an Okanangan word for "swift water"), but the season ended without one being discovered.

Another expedition in 1881 was successful, and expedition leader Major Albert Bowman Rogers was awarded a five thousand dollar prize; in addition, the pass was named for him. By 1885, the CPR had constructed a line through Rogers Pass and trains were traveling west to the Pacific for the first time in Canada. The federal government and the CPR quickly realized the tourism potential of the mountainous, heavily glaciated area, and Glacier National Park was established in 1886. All was not well, however.

While the railway brought with it tourism, the establishment of Glacier National Park and the construction of a popular alpine hotel, the heavy winter snows and steep, avalanche-prone valleys of the park were a major obstacle to transportation, necessitating much railway engineering and extensive avalanche control measures.

Connaught Tunnel (Automobile Portion)

After its first winter in operation in 1886, it became clear to the CPR that the heavy snows of Rogers Pass were going to be a serious challenge. Extensive snow sheds were built to shelter the rails from frequent avalanches. These wood sheds became a fire hazard in the summer months, so a separate summer track was built. In 1910, while clearing one slide, another avalanche came down Avalanche Mountain, killing 62 men; in all, two hundred railway employees were killed between 1886 and 1916. In 1912, the CPR admitted defeat and started the construction of an eight-kilometer tunnel under the pass and Mount Macdonald. The Connaught Railroad Tunnel opened in 1916.

During the ensuing 40 years, while the railroad operated successfully, automobile traffic begain a steady increase. However, there was no automobile route through Rogers Pass. Automobile travelers crossing the Columbia Mountains had to use the circuitous "Big Bend Highway", which followed the upper reaches of the Columbia River north in a large loop. With the planned inundation of much of that valley by hydro projects outlined in the Columbia River Treaty, a new highway route was needed. In 1963, the Trans-Canada Highway was built through Rogers Pass, bringing tourists back to the park in large numbers. At the highest point on the road, a dual-sided automobile tunnel was built, paralleling the Connaught Railroad Tunnel but at a higher elevation.

Today, it is easy to reach Glacier National Park and its high peaks, large, active glaciers, and one of Canada's largest cave systems. Its dense forests support populations of large mammals, birds, and alpine species. The region is noted for its heavy snowfall, and so there is a great deal of winter sports activity. The park has an extensive network of trails, three campgrounds, and four backcountry huts and cabins. Due to the major transportation routes that bisect it, Glacier National Park sees large numbers of visitors.

Once through the Connaught Tunnel, there were a lot of things to see and do, and we tried to see and do as many as we could. Sadly, we only had a day here, but there were hiking trails galore. Three of these things- the Avalanche Crest Trail, the Rogers Pass Historic Area and the Hemlock Grove Boardwalk Trail- resulted in enough pictures that we'll give them their own sections on this page. Two other stops here in Glacier National Park were relatively quick, so I'd like to go ahead and show them to you here.

At one point along our drive, the highway came right down to the Illecillewaet River, and we had a chance to stop and look around.

Fred at the Illecillewaet River

The Illecillewaet River is a tributary of the Columbia River here in British Columbia, Canada. Fed by the Illecillewaet Glacier in Glacier National Park, the river flows approximately 40 miles to the southwest, where it flows into the north end of Upper Arrow Lake at Revelstoke. The river's drainage basin is about 500 square miles.

It was fun to get out and walk around the riverbed, and Fred, particularly, took quite a few pictures- a couple of me and the river and a set of some of the flowers growing along its banks. You can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at them:

The Illecillewaet has been of importance since the discovery in 1881 of an approach along the river to what is now known as the Rogers Pass across the Selkirk Mountains. That pass ultimately became the route through the Selkirks of Canada's first transcontinental railway. In 1962 the Trans-Canada Highway was constructed along the Illecillewaet west of Rogers Pass. The watershed surrounding the river was quickly recognized to be of exceptional ecological significance, and Glacier National Park was established in the area in 1886, followed by Mount Revelstoke National Park in 1914.

At another stop along the highway, we took a fifteen-minute hike along the Rockgarden Trail, which took us up a pile of large boulders to some great views of the valley of the Illecillewaet River.

View from the Rockgarden Trail

The Rockgarden Trail is a path through moss and lichen covered boulder fields that date back to the last Ice Age. The trail leads through black and grizzly bear habitat, and up to a viewpoint overlooking glaciers and the mountain barrier of Rogers Pass.

The Rockgarden Trail offers a rustic and primitive experience. It is a single file trail with rock staircases, stepping stones, slippery and steep sections and sharp cliff faces. This short walk looped around a rocky moraine with occasional views of nearby mountain peaks. The trail started on a boardwalk and then led through a forest filled with hemlock and Douglas fir to the large boulders.

The first of our major stops once through the Connaught Tunnel was the Avalanche Crest Trail, and it was only a few miles beyond the western end of that tunnel.

You can return to today's index or continue with the next section below.

The Avalanche Crest Trail

We learned from our Park brochure that the trailhead for the Avalanche Crest Trail, reputedly one of the best hikes in the Park, could be found at the end of the Illecillewaet Campground, so we turned in there, parked outside the campground, and then walked through it to the south end to the trailhead.

From the Avalanche Crest Trail

We set out on the trail around ten-thirty in the morning, knowing that the 6-mile hike would take at least three or four hours. The trail started off level for a while and shortly crossed a footbridge over a small stream. The trail ascended slowly through mostly open forest, and we crossed a second stream. There, as with the first, Fred had me pose on the footbridge, and you can see his picture of me here.

From that point, the trail began to ascend fairly steeply through a series of switchbacks on the western side of the mountain we were climbing. I might also say that although there was still snow on the ground in spots, the air temperature was warm, and with the exertion of the climb we both began to overheat. I untucked my shirt and Fred took his off, and this made us both more comfortable.

After a bit, we began to get above many of the trees and vistas out from the mountain opened up. Use the clickable thumbnails below to see some of the pictures we took along this part of the hike:

At one point, we met an older couple coming down the trail, and we stopped to talk to them for a while. They, as it turned out, were from Vancouver, and were making one of their many trips to these crown jewels of the Canadian National Parks. They were very engaging, and both Fred and I were impressed with their stamina. I recorded our meeting with a picture of them with Fred, and you can see that picture here.

The Mountains of Glacier National Park

The hike up to the treeline was fun, if arduous, and we found ourselves looking forward to when we would be going down the trail. While we were in the thick vegetation, we took advantage of the opportunity to photograph the flora along the trail; you can use the clickable thumbnails below to see some of these pictures:

Once we were pretty much above the treeline, there were fantastic views in most directions; we're told that the views from here are probably the best in the Glacier National Park. Use the clickable thumbnails below to see some of these views:

At the top of the marked trail, we came out onto out an area of rocks and a good deal of snow. This area sloped up to Eagle Peak, a point that was still perhaps a thousand feet higher than we were- which was about 6,500 feet already. This is the "crest" referred to in the trail's title; we were on the crest of a ridge that continued up to the peaks.

On Avalanche Crest

It was sobering to know that here on this sub-alpine ridge is where the snows fall in winter that turn into avalanches that can reach the Trans-Canada Highway far below. These avalanches are numerous from November through May each year, and the treeless slopes stretching down the mountain give summer hikers ample evidence of this winter phenomenon. We spent quite a bit of time here at the snowfield, cooling down quickly from our hike up. We took numerous pictures (some of which may be repetitive), and you can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at them:

Although we didn't know it yet, some of the views from here took in the history of transportation through Rogers Pass; the abandoned railway we would visit next is actually visible from here. It was the original route of the Canadian Pacific Railway. It was from somewhere in the vicinity of Avalanche Crest that Major Rogers first viewed this famous pass in 1881. We might have gone another 500 feet up to the crest itself, but we couldn't see a route that wasn't still covered with snow, and we didn't relish spending the rest of the day in soggy shoes.

Setting Up the Tripod on Avalanche Crest

We set up the tripod to take some of the pictures above; after carrying it all the way up we were certainly going to use it. But after about an hour of enjoying the cool and the view, we started off back down the trail. It was certainly a lot less strenuous going down! As is the case with most trails, the views in one direction are different that the views in the other, so we took more pictures of ourselves and the view. You can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at some of them:

We enjoyed the trip up to the snowfields on the Avalanche Crest; the whole trip took about four hours but was well worth it. When we returned to the parking lot, we got back in the car and headed west on the Trans-Canada Highway.

You can return to today's index or continue with the next section below.

Rogers Pass Historic Area

Our next stop was only a few miles west of the Avalanche Crest hike; a sign pointed us to the Abandoned Rails Trail. The 1 mile trail took us through the Rogers Pass National Historic Site by walking on the abandoned rail grade between Rogers Pass Center and the Summit of Rogers Pass (past the remains of old snowsheds).

On the Loop Brook Trail

We also walked the Loop Brook Trail. On this 1.5-mile trail, the subject is railway history. We left on the trailhead just east of the Loop Brook Campground. This trail, part of Rogers Pass National Historic Site, highlights the stone pillars that once carried the railway track across the valley. These pillars are among the oldest surviving man-made structures in western Canada.

Just past the campground, we first crossed a beautiful stream to come to the first of these pillars. The pillars, of course, were the supports for the track above. In the Rogers Pass Center, we learned about the history of the Canadian Pacific Railway's efforts to surmount the Rockies on the way to Vancouver. We also saw an old photo of what the supports looked like when the railway was in operation, and you can see that old photo here.

Finding a pass through the Selkirk Mountains became a priority after construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) began, and this pass, named for Major Albert Rogers, was discovered by him in 1881. By 1885, the CPR had constructed a line through Rogers Pass and trains were traveling through Canada west to the Pacific. Tourism exploded, and Glacier National Park was established in 1886. The grade of the railway was too steep to allow for dining cars on the trains, so the CPR built a hotel, Glacier House, west of the pass in 1886. By the end of the century, it was western Canada's premier tourist destination.

Early on, it became clear became clear to the CPR that the heavy snows of Rogers Pass were going to be a serious challenge. Extensive snow sheds were built to shelter the rails from frequent avalanches. These wood sheds became a fire hazard in the summer months, so a separate summer track was built. In 1910, while clearing one slide, another avalanche came down Avalanche Mountain, killing 62 men. In all, two hundred railway employees were killed between 1886 and 1916. In 1912, the CPR admitted defeat and started the construction of an eight-kilometer tunnel under the pass and Mount Macdonald; it opened in 1916.

This spelled the end of the Glacier House, since trains no longer ran there. It was closed in 1925, and torn down four years later. The track through the pass was torn up and reused, and today, only bridge pillars and the trackbed are left.

The Loop Brook Trail took us over that stream and across the bottom of the valley once spanned by a railway bridge. We walked on a trail that paralleled the railroad's path, so it took us past a number of rock bridge pillars. At the far end of the trail, we climbed to an observation deck that offered good views of the pillars and of the valley. You can use the clickable thumbnails at right to see some of the pictures we took on the Loop Brook Trail.

Returning to the campground, we again got back in the car and continued west.

You can return to today's index or continue with the next section below.

The Hemlock Grove Boardwalk Trail

Another few miles west on the Trans-Canada Highway, we reached the parking area for the Hemlock Grove Trail. The trail is a boardwalk along its entire length, designed for people with mobility limitations. On a cold April day in 1987, Rick Hansen climbed the 2800-foot western approach to Rogers Pass in Glacier National Park in his wheelchair. He was only a month away from completion of his two year, 25,000 mile trip through 34 countries– the Man in Motion World Tour. His goal was to raise money to help find a cure for spinal cord injury, the injury from which he, himself, suffered.

On the Hemlock Grove Boardwalk Trail

The Hemlock Grove Boardwalk Trail was developed as a legacy of his visit. This quarter mile, barrier-free boardwalk offers a rainforest experience to people with mobility disabilities, people with visual impairments and people with other limitations on movement, such as seniors and even visitors with baby strollers.

We walked the length of the trail, enjoying the thick forest and wide variety of flora. At one point on the trail, a tree had fallen across the boardwalk. Instead of cutting the tree up to keep it from blocking the path, a new path was built to bypass it (although if one is mobile, you can just climb over the tree trunk and continue on).

We took a number of pictures in this dark, green forest, and you can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at them:

This was our last stop in Glacier National Park; now we will cross over into our sixth Canadian national park of this trip.

You can return to today's index or continue with the next section below.

The Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail

Shortly after leaving the Hemlock Grove Trail, we left Glacier National Park and crossed into Mount Revelstoke National Park. This Park is located adjacent to the city of Revelstoke; it is relatively small for a national park, covering only 100 square miles. It is located in the Selkirk Mountains and was founded in 1914.

Just after we entered Mount Revelstoke Park, we saw a little waterfall right by the roadside, so we stopped to take a look. It wasn't anything spectacular (at least for the area) but anytime two Texas guys run across a waterfall, it is something to stop and see, seeing as how we don't have any to speak of.

The park contains part of the world's only temperate inland rain forest. Steep, rugged mountains shelter a warm, moist climate. A variety of plant and animal life is typical with stands of old-growth Western Red Cedar and Western Hemlock, a forest type which is rapidly declining outside of protected areas.

A few miles into the Park, we saw some signs for a trail called the Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail. The name of it was intriguing enough that we pulled into the parking area right by the river to have a look.

On the Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk

We found the trailhead at the Skunk Cabbage Picnic Area, 18 miles east of Revelstoke. The Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk trail turned out to be a three-quarter-mile interpretive trail that leads through valley bottom rainforest and fragile wetlands inhabited by muskrats, beavers, bears and the strange skunk cabbage plant. There were exhibits about the many birds that migrate from South and Central America to the Skunk Cabbage area each year.

The pictures we took here on the Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail were the last we took today in the national parks, and you can use the clickable thumbnails below to have a look at them:

That's a Columbian ground squirrel And skunk cabbage, of course

After this last short walk, we got back in the car and drove the rest of the way west to the town of Revelstoke where we got a room at a local hotel.

An Evening Walk in Revelstoke

We walked from the hotel to a nearby restaurant for dinner, and on the way back stopped at a sculpture of grizzly bear where Fred snapped the picture at left.

Tomorrow, we'll go up Mount Revelstoke and then head on to Vancouver.

You can return to today's index or use the links below to continue to another photo album page.

	July 3, 2001: Revelstoke and Vancouver, British Columbia
	July 1, 2001: Maligne Canyon and Yoho National Park
	Return to the Index for Our Canada Trip